Photo by Hat Kelly

Simple but deluxe, this sandbox has canopy protec­tion against sun and rain for all-weather pleasure.

Happy and safe hours for your children are assured with the awn-inged sandbox. It's an excellent solution to every mother's problem of how to keep the children occupied without parental supervision and worries of "where'd that boy wander off to now?"

A couple sacks of sand should last for the whole season. The canopy protects the sand from normal rainfall, so as soon as the sun comes out again the sandbox is ready to play in. And a sudden rain will find the child under convenient cover until the rain is over. The canopy affords pro­tection to sensitive skin from strong, direct sunlight.

The box itself is built of Duraply, which is water- and frost-resistant, so that you can keep the sandbox outdoors throughout the year. And the Duraply does not have surface splinters through weathering, as ordinary wood surfaces often have.

Using a compass, throw arcs on both side walls Temporarily tack sides (C) together, then cut (C). on outer surface, to form a scallop design. out both sides at same time; hold sides steady.

Photos above by Milton Siilamon

After cutting scallops in (C), use these Bides as pattern for tracing scallops onto sides (B).

Drill four 1/4-inch holes 3/8 inch from end edge of sides (C); start holes 1 inch horn each end.

Long edges of Duraply seals (F) are half-rounded Ordinary hand plane can be used for rounding off on jointer before assembly, to protect seat, child. edges. Drill five ¼-inch holes along one of edges.

Mount 3/4 X 2-inch floor cleats cut from surplus Duraply all around frame, 63/4 inches from top.

After fitting and mounting bottom (A) into box, put seats (F) on; leave 3/4inch overhang inside.

As shown in the plywood layout diagram on a following page, cut out all pieces and mark them with identifying letters. Take the longer sides (C) and temporarily tack both pieces together. Use a compass and a straightedge to mark the bottom of side (C) for a scallop design, swinging a series of arcs as shown in the photos.

Cut out joined sides (C) together. Then use the cut-out scallop design on (C) as a pattern for tracing onto sides (B). Again, tack sides (B) together, cut them out and take them apart, and eliminate all sharp edges except those at the ends.

Parallel to the sides of pieces (C) and 3/8 inch in, draw a line and drill four 1/4-inch holes along it. The holes should be equally spaced, with the end holes started 1 inch in from the long sides. Countersink holes on the outside surface.

Assemble the box frame with waterproof glue and 11/2-inch No. 10 flathead screws. Then mount legs (D) and (E) to the frame, holding one edge of (D) flush with the out­side of (E), as shown in the detail sketch accompanying the cutaway drawing. Use glue and screws as before.

Draw a line parallel to one of the long edges of seat (F), 11/8inches in from edges, and drill five equally spaced 1/4-mch holes along this line, starting the holes l1/2 inches from each end. Countersink the holes on the top surface for flathead screws. Do this for both seats. Then round off the long edges of each seat to a complete half-round. (Refer to the photos.)

Mark awning posts (G) and drill through both of pieces at same time, 1 1/4 inches from the top end.

Fasten posts (G) in place on center of sides (C) with stove bolts after drilling hole through (C).

Photos below by Milton Salomon; all others by Burt Murphy

Hold four awning side-frame members (H) together, mark them, and notch out one end of all members.

Cut out notches in members (H). Note that one of pairs is notched on both ends, other on only one.

Mount a 2-inch wide cleat to the inside surface of the box frame, all around the frame parallel to the top edge and 63/4 inches down. Cut the cleats from surplus Duraply, and fasten them with glue and 4d box nails.

Fit and mount floor bottom (A) into the box, using 11/4-inch No. 10 flathead screws through bottom (A) into the cleats, around 8 inches apart.

Using waterproof glue and 11/4-inch No. 10 flathead screws, mount seats (F) onto the box frame. Leave 3/4inch of the seat extend on the inside of the box.

Start the canopy assembly by first cutting two awning posts (G), each measuring 3/4x31/2x42 inches. Put one post (G) on top of the other, and drill a 5/16-inch hole through both pieces, centered 11/4 inches from the top end. At the bottom end of both pieces drill two 1/4-inch holes, cen­tered at 1 inch and 61/2 inches from the end.

Round off the top end as shown in the drawings, and break all edges and ends with sandpaper. Mount both posts (G) at the center of sides (C), about 11/2inches from the bottom or just about where the scallops end. Drill 1/4-inch holes through sides (C) by inserting the drill bit through the existing holes in posts (G).

Put 1/4x2-inch stove bolts through the holes in (G) and (C), add washers and tighten on the inside. Make sure that all excess bolt is cut off and sharp edges are smoothed so that there is no possibility of injury to the children. Do not use glue for the canopy assembly because you may wish to disassemble the canopy for storage, moving, etc.

Make four awning side frames (H). Place all the pieces together, on top of one another, and mark them for notches where edge stiles (J) will fasten. In one end of pieces (H), drill pilot holes for mounting the pieces to posts (G)— refer to the draw­ings. Only two pieces (H) are to be notched on both ends, so after cutting notches in one end, take the four pieces apart. Then notch the other end of two pieces (H).

Place pieces (H) in pairs, mark them accordingly, and round the ends as shown. Assemble each frame section separately, after cutting out stiles (J). Note that one frame section will have to fit between the other section, and that one piece (J) will therefore have to be shorter than the other by double the thickness of piece (H).

In assembling the awning frame sections, use waterproof glue and thin nails or 1-inch No. 5 flathead screws. Mount the com­pleted frames to posts (G), using 1/4x2-inch stove bolts with washers and wing nuts.

Adjust the frame sections so that the canopy is shaped to resemble a house roof. Tighten the wing nuts firmly. Now plane away all excess edges of side frame mem­bers (H) as shown in detail drawing "X."

Cover the canopy frame with a plastic or thin canvas material, preferably water­proof. Use roundhead upholstery tacks if they are easily obtainable; otherwise regular tacks will do. When cutting the material, make the width equal to that of the wider frame section, while the length should include a 6- to 8-inch overlap on each end to allow for overhang.

For a decorative effect, you can cut a scallop design with scissors, making the scallops 3 to 4 inches wide by 1 to 11/2 inches deep.

Although Duraply is a waterproof ma­terial that will not be damaged if the box is left unpainted, there will be greater pro­tection for the surface against the chil­dren's abuse if you provide a finish. Either an outside paint or varnish on all surfaces and edges will enhance the appearance further and give extra protection. For the model shown, two coats of clear spar var­nish were used. This should be repeated every spring to retain a new appearance. •

Round off ends of frame members (H) as shown in preceding drawings; stile (I) goes into notch.

Photo* by Surt Murphy

Assemble canopy frames, then mount both frames to posts (G) with stove bolts, washers, wing nuts.

After tightening wing nuts firmly and planing off edges as shown in detail drawing, cover canopy.

Thin canvas, preferably waterproof, is tacked to frame; rounded upholstery tacks would be best.

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