rocking horse

What's a kid's life without a rocking horse? Here's one that your great-great-grandchild can use, because it's built to last forever.

Ronny Baker. Bill's youngest, doesn't want to get off. Rounded rocker ends keep the ride from getting too wild.

Photo by Mike Bonvino

There is no doubt that a rocking horse like the one above will be the favorite toy of your pre-school tot. It is designed to be attractive, inviting and completely safe. Particularly noteworthy are the ends of the rocker which, in order to prevent the horse from tilting over, are rounded toward the bottom. Its firm construction will enable you to hand down this beautiful toy for generations. The entire horse is built from 3/4-inch Duraply, which will en­able you, because of its smoothness, to do a good job on the painting. Should Junior forget the toy outdoors, you will have noth­ing to worry about: Duraply is weather­proof.

Considering its importance to a child and long use, the material involved is very in­expensive, and Dad should be able to make this a one week-end project.

Make a full size layout on heavy paper or cardboard, using the graph-grid as illus­trated. Make sure that you place the layout on a piece of plyboard well secured with several thumbtacks. Because the different pieces overlap one another, replace the patterns after their use, taping them back into their original position with transparent tape, so that you can cut out the other pat­terns and repeat the procedure.

On a 3x4-foot piece of 3/4-inch Duraply, place patterns of the head (A, one piece), back body filler (C, one piece), main body outsides (B, two pieces), front legs (E, two pieces), back legs (D, two pieces), back leg fillers (H, two pieces), seat (F, one piece), rockers (G, two pieces), rocker crosspieces (J, two pieces). Mark all pieces accord­ingly and cut out. Note: When tracing the head make sure that the holes for the mane decoration as well as the dowel hole are also marked. Before assembly, pre-sand all edges and bore all holes.

Assemble the rocking horse by first mounting the head (A) to the inside sur­face of one of the main body sides (B). Use glue and 4d finishing nails. Next, mount the back body filler (C) in place, holding it flush on top and snugly against the horse's head. Next, glue and nail the other body side (B) on top of the previous assembly. Again, keep it flush on top.

Plane the bottom edge flush. Also, plane and sand the straight top edge flush. Sand all curved edges flush next, and round all sharp edges of the body and head with the exception of the straight top edge.

ALL COMPONENTS ON 2"SQUARES RULED ON ONE PANELOF 3/4'X 36"X 36" DURAPLY

Photos by Mike Bonvino unless otherwise noted

Photo bv Burt Murphy

Pattern of head (A) is cul out of full-size layout One-inch holes are bored in head for mane decguide of rocking horse made on heavy paper. oration and interesting auxiliary grips for child.

Photo by Burt Murphy

Use the patterns of legs to bore holes in the correct position, then drill three -3/16-inch holes through each of the four legs and countersink for flathead screws.

With the help of the patterns, mount the front legs in position first, using glue and 11/2-inch No. 10 flathead screws. Now, trim down the back leg fillers (H) from the full 3/4-inch thickness on the straight line to a sharp edge, wedgelike on the round end. Make certain that you keep these fillers correctly marked in order to have them in a pair, trimmed on opposite sides.

Now, glue and nail these wedge fillers onto the inside of each back leg (D) keep­ing the outside edges flush. It may he nec­essary to sand the upper outside edge of the legs again. Bevel the bottom edges of each back leg toward the inside. Find the cor­rect angle by placing the back leg against the wall and floor. Round off the edges of the back legs, with the exception of the wedge filler and the bottom edge. Set the legs aside.

On the top surface of seat (F), make a centerline and parallel lines 3/4 inch away. Bore three holes, each starting I1/4 inches from each end. Countersink for flathead screws. On the bottom surface of the seat, again mark a centerline, then lines 11/8 inches to each side of it for guide lines. Mount the seat in place, using glue and l1/2-inch No. 10 flathead screws.

Bandsaw out horse's head alter tracing outline onto wood from paper pattern; head is shown below.

All necessary parts are pictured above, cut out and drilled and ready for assembly shown on next page.

Begin assembly by mounting head to inside surface of one of main body sides (B), with glue, nails.

Next, insert the drill into the holes in the back legs (D) and bore all the way through the wedge fillers (H). Mount the back legs in place, again using part of the pattern to line up. Use glue and 11/2-inch No. 10 flathead screws through the upper holes where the leg is only 3/4inch thick, and 2-inch No. 10 flathead screws where the leg is 11/2inches thick.

Tack both rockers (G) temporarily to­gether and sand all edges even. Then place the rockers on top of your full-size layout and mark the position of the crosspiece braces (J). Now take both rockers apart and round all edges well, with exception of the spaces marked previously.

Below, back body filler piece (C) is mounted in place; hold it flush on top. snug against head.

Using glue and 4d finishing nails, attach other main body side (B) on assembly completed above.

Parallel to and 3/8 inch in from each end, bore two 3/16-inch holes in both crosspieces, and countersink on the top surface for flat-head screws. Start the holes % inch from each end.

Round all end edges on the top only, and all four long edges of both crosspieces (J). Assemble the rocker by mounting the crosspieces into the marked spaces, holding them flush on the ends with the outside of the rockers. Use glue and 11/2-inch No. 8 flathead screws. Now square up the rocker and make sure it is straight.

Bend a piece of iron measuring 1/8sxlx22 inches so that in the exact center the shoul­der is 21/4 inches wide, and both long ends (now parallel) are of the same length. Next, bend over each end to the outside, keeping the overall length to 71/2inches. Referring to your full-size layout, notch into the bot­tom edge of the main body, between the two front legs, on a slant. Bore two 1/2-inch holes through both the shoulder and the ends of the iron support, and countersink the holes in the ends on the top side for flathead screws. Leave the holes in the shoulder as they are, for roundhead screws. Mount the iron support into the notch in the main body with 11/2-inch No. 12 round­head screws. Place the horse onto the rocker crosspieces, keeping the back legs well centered. Then trace around the bot­tom edge of the back legs, and at the same time check that the bevel on the bottom edge of the legs is correct. Next, take the horse off again and drill two 3/16-inch holes 3/4 inch from each end, centered in the width. Drill these to the- same slant as the back legs, through the marked spaces in the crosspieces. Countersink the holes on the bottom surface for flathead screws-Mount the back legs (D) to the rocker, using glue and 2-inch No. 8 flathead screws. Note that when mounting screws into the end grain of plywood, it is advisable to drill pilot holes to prevent splitting. Screw the metal bracket support to the front crosspiece, keeping it centered. Use 3/4-inch No. 10 flathead screws. Putty all holes and sand off the putty when dry.

Below, curved edges are sanded on disc sander. Smooth, regular curves enhance the appearance.

Completed body assembly is planed flush on bot­tom, on jointer. PIane straight part of top too.

Round oil all edges of the body and head, except lor those on straight top edge where seat mounts.

Holding the pattern for guidance, mount the front legs in position, using glue and 11/2-inch No. 10 screws.

Trim down back leg fillers (H) from a lull 3/4-inch thickness to a sharp wedgelike rounded end.

Alter marking fillers (H) to avoid mixing them, glue and nail them to inside of back legs (D).

Drill holes 3/4 inch to each side of centerline of seal, draw guide lines on bottom, and mount.

Fasten back legs (D) in place, using part of the pattern to insure proper location; glue, screw on.

After cutting and sanding both rockers (G), place them on pattern and mark location of braces (J).

Holding ends of braces (I) flush with outsides Square up rocker assembly by measuring diagonally as described in the chapter on technique rockers, fasten with glue and flathead screws.

Make support of 1/8inch iron, bending iron so In bottom edge of main body, between front legs, that the top shoulder measures 21/4inches wide. cut a notch at slant where iron support will fit.

In shoulder and In right-angled ends of support, drill two 1/4-inch holes. Countersink holes in ends.

Fasten support into notch In body with 11/2-inch No. 12 roundhead screws (holes not countersunk).

Now place horse onto rocker braces (I) with back legs (D) well centered before support is mounted.

Back legs are mounted to rocker brace with glue, screws; drill pilot holes in leg bottoms first.

Piece of 1/2-inch rope about 10 inches long will Round off 3/4-inch dowel and glue il into hole in serve handsomely as tail. Glue it into deep hole. horse's head. Toe-nail dowel in place; set nail.

Wind three or more turns of stove wire tightly around rope tail, then fringe out rope at end up to the wire wrapping. Old comb can be used for fringing.

Next, cut a 3/4-Inch dowel to a 6-inch length. Round off the sharp corners on the ends and glue the dowel into the 3/4-inch hole in the horse's head, leaving an equal amount extending out on each side. Now secure the dowel by placing a small finish­ing nail through the plywood into the dowel and countersinking it.

Bore a 1/2-inch hole into the back edge of the horse's body, centered in the edge and about 1 inch below the seat. The hole is to be about 1 inch deep and bored on a downslope. Insert a 1/2-inch rope in this hole, using glue. Cut the rope about 10 inches long. Wind about three turns of stove wire tightly around the rope, 3 inches from the end. Fringe out the rope to the point of the wire with an old comb.

Note that if you desire horse to have a black tail you can dye it before mounting it into the horse's body—or paint it with black paint after assembly.

It is essential to have all edges rounded smooth. The model horse was painted white with two coats of Keystone Slikup.

The ears are cut out from leather, folded over and mounted in place with a round­head upholstery nail. •

Color combination is up to you: there are horses and horses (black, red on white body used here).

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