Little Claudia Baker thinks her dad Bill makes the most wonderful things. Tidiness comes easy here.

Regular closets are too high, so let your child care for her own clothes in her very special, very private wardrobe unit.

This versatile unit will solve all your storage problems, while teaching your child the proper care of his or her own wardrobe. The clean, modern lines give this cabinet an important yet youngish appearance. The top cabinet which pro­vides for such objects as hats, purses, etc., can be reached by a four-year-old without aid of chairs or the like. A Touch-Latch will open the doors with just a light pres­sure. The bottom cabinet contains a slid­ing clothes rack which will amply hold a full wardrobe.

Only one sheet of plywood is needed for most of the parts, plus some other materials, to build this luxurious cabinet in a few leisure hours. The work instructions to follow will make this project possible for the novice.

Drawer rails are mounted to side (D) and parti­tion (E), following guide lines on (D) and (£).

Assemble drawer section top (B), partition (E), using glue and 11/4inch No. S flathead wood screws.

The cabinet shown here was made of Nakora plywood and painted with white Firzite and wiped off carefully. This brought out the open grain of the Nakora plywood to its full extent The bottom door was painted with Keystone's Sweet Pea Pink, giving the unit a most striking appearance.

Cut all pieces, as shown in the plywood layout chart, out of a 4x8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch Nakora plywood. Note that since there isn't enough material on the sheet for the bottom of the cabinet, part (L), a solid wood strip can be added to the back edge of (L) to make the necessary depth.

Next, bore 1/2-inch holes, 5/16inch deep, then 3/16-inch holes all the way through the center of the 1/2-inch holes, as follows: Bore four holes each, 3/8 inch in from and parallel to the left and right edge of closet top (A). Then four holes 53/8 inches from and parallel to the bottom edge on sides (C) and (D). Then four holes 3/8inch from and parallel to the right edge of chest top (B). Then four holes 135/8 inches from and parallel to the top edge of side (C). Then two holes each 3/8inch from and parallel to the bottom front recessed edge of sides (C) and (D), along the 5-inch height. All holes are to be bored through the outside surface, starting 1 inch from each end.

Next, drill 3/16 inch holes all the way through as follows: four holes 135/8 inches from and parallel to the top edge of par­tition (E), countersunk on the inside sur­face; four holes 147/8 inches from and paral­lel to the left end edge of bottom (L), countersunk on the bottom surface. Again, start these holes 1 inch from the ends.

Closet side panel (C) is now mounted to previous assembly: closet lop (A) is at right, comes next

Support cleat for wardrobe shelf is fastened to partition panel (E), following the guide lines.

After pre-sanding the pieces, mark the following guide lines lightly. On the in­side surface of side (C), 131/4 inches from and parallel to the top edge, then 3/4inch from there. Repeat this on the inside sur­face of partition (E). On the inside surface of side (D), draw lines 5 inches from and parallel to the bottom edge, then 3/4 inch from there; then 75/16 inches further in, and 3/4 inch from there; then again 75/16 inches and 3/4 inch.

On the surface of partition (E) opposite to the previously marked side, draw the following guide lines: 75/16 inches from and parallel to the bottom edge, then 3/4 inch from there; then again 75/16 inches and 3/4 inch; and again 75/16inches and 3/4 inch. In this case it is advisable to line up both in-sides of (D) and (E), at the same time.

On the top surface of bottom (L), 141/2 inches from and parallel to the left end and edge draw a line across, then another 3/4 inch away. Once all the guide lines are laid out, check with your diagram in order to visualize the placement of the different pieces.

Rabbet out the back edges 1/4inch deep by 3/8 inch wide for a 1/4-inch plywood back, as follows: On top (A), stop the rabbet cut 3/8 inch from the ends; on top (B), rabbet through the left end but stop 3/8 inch from the right end; on sides (C) and (D), let the rabbet run through; on partition (E), cut the rabbet to the point of the bottom guide line on the inside surface, 141/2 inches from the top of (E)—the 1/4-inch plywood back will mount on top of this edge.

Cut four drawer slides from 3/4-inch thick solid wood, 11/2inches wide by 13 inches long. Drill three 3/16-inch holes through the edges and countersink for flat-head screws. Mount cleats on the guide lines of pieces (D) and (E), holding them flush with the inside of the back rabbet. Use glue and 2-inch No. 10 flathead screws.

Cover the left and right edges of cabinet top (A) and the right end edge of chest top (B) with matching Weldwood Wood-Trim. (See the chapter on Wood-Trim.) File and sand the trim flush, then start the cabinet assembly as follows: (Note: During assem­bly, keep the front edges down and back edges up to make sure that all back edges are perfectly flush.)

Mount side (D) to bottom (L), with glue and 11/4-inch No. 8 flathead screws, and set aside. Next, assemble top (B) with par­tition (E). Join both of these assemblies together, then mount side (C) on. Next, mount top (A). For all these operations, use glue and l1/4-inch No. 8 flathead screws. Make a 3/4x3/4xl3-inch cleat, and round it off on one end. Mount this cleat beneath the bottom guide line on the inside of par­tition (E). Square the cabinet up and set it aside to let the glue dry. Then cover all 1/2-inch holes with matching 1/2-inch long-grain plugs and sand them flush.

Fit and mount shelf (K) into cabinet, holding it flush with the inside of the back rabbet. Use glue and l1/4-inch flathead screws through sides (C) and the cleat. Now cover the holes on the outside of (C). Put the cabinet on its back, plane all edges flush, and cut two 3/4xl1/2x271/4-inch front strips and fit them to the drawer glides. Bore one 1/2-inch hole, 1/2 inch deep, then 3/16-inch holes ail the way through on each end of the strip. Mount the strips into place using glue and 21/2-inch No. 8 flat-head screws. Here it is advisable to drill pilot holes first.

Next, cover the 5-inch front edges of the base cutout of sides (C) and (D) with matching Wood-Trim. Mount base strip (F), using glue and l1/4-inch No. 8 flathead screws through sides (C) and (D). Turn the cabinet upside down and mount a 4-inch angle iron on the inside of the base­board for additional support. Again, fill all 1/2-inch holes with long-grain plugs, and then put the cabinet on its back.

Cover all edges with matching Weldwood Wood-Trim, using contact cement. When covering the edges do not miter the corners, but cut them off in the same manner as the actual plywood pieces were cut. Cut off the excess trim and then carefully plane off the excess of the two drawer-slide front pieces. Place the cabinet face down, and cut, fit and temporarily mount the y4-inch back.

With cabinet lying on its back, fasten in place the front drawer divider strips; toe board (F) is shown mounted between sides.

Front edges have been covered with Wood-Trim; front drawer dividers are carefully planed down.

Place cabinet front down and mount 1/4-inch thick plywood back into rabbets on rear cabinet edges.

Fit the doors, holding the piano hinge in place to insure proper clearance. Attach matching Wood-Trim on the top and right side edges, then mount the piano hinge. Mount doors in place, then attach a Touch-Latch on the top of each compartment, fol­lowing the manufacturer's instructions. To the top of the bottom compartment, attach a 12-inch Clothing Carrier.

Fit the drawer fronts, using cardboard pieces to insure proper clearance. Rabbet the two end edges, 3/8 inch deep by the same width as the thickness of the drawer sides used. Now clamp all three pieces together temporarily, keeping them flush on all edges. Bore holes for knobs through all three pieces at the same time. Knobs should be mounted about 6 inches from each end and in the exact center vertically.

Fit the drawer sides, then dado out a 1/4x1/4-inch groove, 1/2 inch from the bot­tom edge on the inside of drawer fronts and sides. Cut the drawer backs—the length is to be the same as that of the drawer front minus the width of the rab­bets, and the height is to be from the top of the V4-inch groove to the top edge.

Assemble the drawers with glue and 6d finishing nails, and set the nail heads and putty the holes. Now check that the drawers are straight, and square them up. Cut 1/4-inch plywood bottoms and insert them through the back, making sure they do not stick out beyond the back of drawer. Nail the drawer bottom to drawer back. Fit the entire drawer into the cabinet, placing regular thumbtacks near the front of the drawer runners; if drawers are too loose, place thumbtacks on the inside of the cab­inet sides as well. Use paraffin on the drawer runners only. Once the drawer fits properly and the top edges are planed flush, cover the top edge of the drawer front (G) with matching Wood-Trim.

Fit wardrobe doors into place in the cabinet; lor Attach both sections of 3/4-inch piano hinge to proper clearance, hold piano hinge in its place. doors (H), (I); fasten on with 3/4-inch screws.

Touch-Latch allows door to open or close with a Clothing Carrier 12 inches long attaches beneath slight pressure, makes knobs, etc.. unnecessary. wardrobe shelf, slides out for easy accessibility.

To make fob easier and assure good alignment all Drawer assembly is almost complete. The back is drawer-front knob holes should be drilled at once. nailed between sides (clearing the dadoed groove).

To permit drawer to slide more smoothly, bevel back edges as shown, with hand plane or disc sander.

Also, bevel the back edges of the drawer and round the shoulders of the drawer-side bottom edge in the back for smoother slid­ing. Now, mount the cabinet back per­manently. Putty all holes, and sand all parts well before and after assembly. •

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