Photo by Mike Bon vino

Rest and relaxation during those hectic play periods is assured when young'uns have a bench all their own.

This very practical and beautiful item for the yard or indoors will give your youngsters many happy hours, espe­cially during their make-believe games. It is built in small scale and will make them feel that it is really their own.

In order to prevent splintering or crack­ing, this bench was designed to be made from 3/4-inch Duraply. Duraply is water­proof and heatproof, and due to its smooth surface can easily be maintained with the least amount of paint. Since most people will probably use this bench outdoors, it can be left there all year long regardless of the season. Another very important ad­vantage in using plywood for this bench is the fact that the decorative and very well designed legs and back can be cut out and used without having to make any compli-, cated wood joints.

From a 4x4-foot piece of 3/4-inch Dura­ply, cut out all pieces as shown in the plywood layout chart. Note: When cutting the cross legs, make the saw cuts 1/16 inch outside of the pencil line so that after two pieces are glued together, you will be able to sand and plane them even without changing the shape.

After cutting pieces (A), (B), (C) from Duraply sheet trace legs onto the remaining Duraplly.

Next step is to cut out all parts (D) of leg as­semblies,- cutting layout is shown on next page.

Disc sander is used to sand all outside curves of the leg assemblies, for roundness and evenness. Place legs on flat surface and draw crosslines 14 inches from bottom for seat support blocks.

Waterproof glue is applied to surface of both halves of leg assembly; then mount legs together.

Place drum sander in drill press to sand down inside curves. Foreground piece isn't for bench.

After the pieces are cut out, glue them together in pairs, using Waterproof Weld-wood Glue and 4d finishing nails, making sure that edges are closed tightly all around- Wash off excess glue and set aside to dry at least six hours—read the manu­facturer's instructions. After the glue has dried, sand and plane all parts flush and mark a cross-line where the seat support blocks are to tie in. This can be done by placing the legs on top of a straight flat surface like a saw table and measuring 14 inches from the bottom. This should be the same on the front and back of the legs. These are the top lines where 2x2-inch seat reinforcing blocks are to be mounted after they are rounded on the front end and bored for two 2-inch No. 12 flathead screws in the front and one in the back. Note: Before mounting support blocks with glue and screws, place both legs together and compare them for accuracy, then mark them on the front edge 1/2inch from the top of the back, then 51/2inches from there, then 2 inches and again 2 inches. These are guide lines where upper back rest (B) and back (C) are to be mounted. Next cut and sand the back ends of the (C) support blocks flush with the back of the legs.

Round the upper ends of both back sup­ports, break all edges with sandpaper and bevel the bottom ends of the legs with a file. Then set the legs aside.

Draw lines on legs 1/2, 6, 8 and 10 inches Irom top, to serve as guides for mounting (B), (C).

Opposite page: top row & bottom right photos by Burt Murphy; center row & bottom left by Mike Bonvino. Photo above by Burt Murphy

Seat reinforcing blocks of 2x2-inch solid wood are at­tached to legs; use glue and 2-inch No. 12 flathead screws—with two in front.

Bevel the bottom ends of the legs with a file to prevent their splintering out due to rough use.

Now place seat (A) and backs (B) and (C) together, holding them perfectly flush on the ends, in an upside-down position. Mark them 5 inches from each end, then l1/2 inches from there. These are guide lines where parts will mount and line up with the legs and back support. On the seat, transfer these lines to the back edge and 13/4 inches around to the top surface. On the backs (B) and (C), on the front surface, mark lines 51/2 inches from each end and bore two ]/4-inch holes along each. Start the holes 1 inch from the edges on piece (B) and 5/8 inch from the edges on piece (C), countersinking the holes for flathead screws.

Next, start notches 11/2 inches wide by 13/4 inches deep, 5 inches from each end, on the back edge of seat (A). After cut­ting out the notches, file the end cuts to a 1/4-inch slant toward the bottom. This can be checked by marking a line across on the bottom surface, 2 inches from the back edge. Also round all ends and corners of all three pieces (A), (B) and (C).

Photos above by Bivrt Murphy; all others these two pages by Mike Bonvino

Hold Paris (A). (B), (C) together, flush on the ends, and draw lines 5 and 61/2 inches from ends.

Cut out notch l1/2 inches wide, 13/4 inches deep, on back edge of seat (A), for entry of the leg.

On back (B), 91/2 inches from each end, draw a 3-inch square in the center of the width of the board. In each square mark a vertical centerline, then bore two 11/2-inch holes next to each other on the upper part of each square. Connect the outlines with the bottom point of the centerline and cut out the hearts. Sand and break all edges. Also, make a 14-inch cutout 11/2inches deep in top center of back (B).

Assemble the complete bench by first placing the seat into the cross-legs, keeping the legs lying on their backs. Start a couple of 2-inch No. 12 flathead screws to keep the seat in place, then turn the entire assembly upside down. Finish placing the rest of the screws, and tighten. Next mount (B) and (C) into place, using 11/4~inch No. 12 flathead screws. Note: If you intend ever to take the bench apart, do not use glue for the final assembly; otherwise use Weldwood Waterproof Glue.

Sand all edges and round them before and after assembly. Surfaces do not have to be sanded on Duraply. Before painting, putty all holes and sand the excess off.

The model bench was painted pink with white edges, using Keystone Alkyd Paint. •

Above, after making saw cut for notch, chisel it out Then file the end cuts to 1/74-inch slant.

Left, alt corners of back rests (B), (C) and of seat (A) are rounded smooth here on a Shopsmiih.

On back real (8) bore two 11/2-inich holes side-by-side in upper half of a 3-inch square whose centerline is 91/2 inches from end. Connect out­lines with bottom point of centerline and cut on line to form decorative heart; sand all the edges.

As first step in assembly of bench seat and backs, place seat (A) on leg reinforcing blocks, push legs in notches.

Photo by Burt Murphy

With legs as shown on oppo­site page, start couple of screws into blocks to hold seat; turn Upside down to tighten.

All edges should be "broken" with file and sanded smooth. Duraply surfaces are smooth, therefore require no sanding.

Left, backs (B), (C) are attached to legs with 1 1/4-inch No. 12 screws; see text about using glue.

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