by Mike Bonvino; all others by Burt Murphy

For less than $25 you can construct a compact cabinet to house your youngster's hi-fi and record collection.

This cabinet was designed because of the enthusiasm of today's youth for recorded music, and because it's a good idea to enable your son or daughter to en­joy listening to music at home. The at­tractive and informal cabinet has adequate room for records. The cost of the entire setup is nominal, especially since a hi-fi tuner and amplifier, a speaker and a rec­ord-changer in a similar unit would be quite expensive to buy. The lumber needed for the cabinet should cost you under $25.

The model cabinet was made of Nakora plywood painted with white Firzite and rubbed off carefully, and then painted with Satinlac and steel-wooled. This gave the cabinet a silvery-gray, satin sheen surface. With doors made from perforated hard-board painted a soft pink and knobs turned of wood matching the doors, this unit is a most striking conversation piece.

Assemble ledge top panel (B) of record cabinet with side panel (D). (See diagram on page 127.)

After mounting player side (C) to (E), mount side (D) of record cabinet and assemble both sections.

To mount amplifier housing, insert I1/2-inch No. 8 flathead screws through the partition panel (CD.

Speaker hole measures 1 inch less than diameter of speaker. Use a router-cutter after assembly.

Cut out and mark all pieces as shown in the plywood layout chart. In back edge of pieces (C), (Cl) and (D) cut a 1/4x3/8-inch rabbet. On top (A), stop the rabbet cut 3/8 inch from each side edge, and on top (B) stop it 3/8 inch from the right side. Next, draw guide lines on the inside sur­face of (C) and both surfaces of (Cl), 7 and 73/4 inches from the top. On the top surface of (E), 151/2 and I61/4 inches from the left side, draw guide lines across.

Draw a line 73/8 inches from the top edge of (C) on the outside surface; draw lines 3/8 inch from the side edges of (A) and right side edge of (B); draw lines 3/8 inch from the bottom edges of (C) and (D). On all of these single lines bore four equally-spaced 1/2-inch holes, 5/16 inch deep, then 3/16-inch holes all the way through them, starting 1 inch from each end.

On the bottom surface of (E) draw a line 157/8 inches from the left side edge. On the inside of (Cl), 73/8 inches from the top, draw another line. On these two lines, drill 3/16-inch holes all the way through and countersink them.

The speaker hole is cut according to the size speaker used; the diameter is usually 1 inch smaller than the speaker size. If the opening is cut out on a jig saw the cutting should be done before the cabinet assem­bly. If a router cutter or bayonet-saw is used for cutting, as shown in illustrations, it is advisable to do the cutting after the cabinet is assembled.

Technical advice for this project provided by Hudson Radio & TV Supply Co., Newark, N. J.

For the entire cabinet assembly use glue and l1/4-inch No. 8 flathead screws. Cover both side edges of (A) and the right side edge of (B) with matching Wood-Trim before assembling the cabinet. Trim and sand excess off.

Cut off the 1/4x3/8-inch shoulder left by the back rabbet on (Cl) to 73/8 inches from the top edge. Cut 3/16-inch wide grooves for the sliding doors in (E) and (B), 5/16inch deep in (E) and 1/2 inch in (B), to enable you to lift in the doors. Start the first channel 3/8 inch from the front, and the second 3/8 inch further back. In (E), the channels run through on the right end and stop between both guide lines on the top surface. On (B), the channels run through on the left end and stop 3/8 inch from the right.

Assemble (E) and (Cl); then (B) and (D); next, add (C) to (E-Cl); then assem­ble both pre-assemblies by fastening (D) to (E). Turn the cabinet right side up and mount on (A), and square up the cabinet by measuring diagonally. Mount to the in­side of (Cl), below the bottom guide lines, a 3/4x3/4-inch solid wood cleat, flush with the back and 3/4inch inside the front edge. This cleat must have three 3/16-inch holes drilled each way and countersunk, with the front end rounded. Glue and screw the speaker shelf into the cabinet holding it flush in the back with the inside of the rab­bets.

Determine placement for amplifier knobs by using template furnished by manufacturer as your guide.

After boring 1-lnch holes in each corner, cut out vent holes in back and fit with window screening.

Mortise channels for slides vertically centered in drawer sides. Groove shown is 3/8 inch deep.

Mount drawer slides in cabinet by placing sides on 1/8-inch thick cardboard for proper clearance.

Mount record-player platform to top of the drawer with I1/2-inch No. 8 roundhead screws as shown.

Simulate two drawers by making two fine saw cuts 3/4inch apart in exact center of drawer front.

Put the cabinet face down and clean out all rabbets, then turn it face up and plane all front edges and cover them with match­ing Wood-Trim.

Make the hi-fi amplifier housing, which is variable and depends on the unit used. This housing was made so that the front cleared the door by 1/2inch. For mounting instructions, read your manufacturer's manual. Bore holes in (E) for ventilation, and cut out vents in the cabinet back after mounting it, for the speaker and amplifier enclosure. Fasten regular window screen over the vents.

Next, fit and mount the speaker front panel, using cleats on the inside. Make a record player drawer, which again is vari­able with the record changer used. Cut the sides of the drawers to the clearance needed, which in any case should not be less than 5 inches. Next, rout out for a drawer slide, following the manufacturer's instructions: for this cabinet a Silver Streak drawer slide was used.

Fit the drawer front in place, leaving 1/8inch clearance all around. Cover side and top edges with matching Wood-Trim. In­side the drawer sides, flush with the top and bottom, mount a 3/4x3/4-inch solid wood cleat, with 3/16-inch holes bored each way and countersunk. At the back of each drawer side, 3/8 inch in, bore two 3/16-inch countersunk holes on each side of the drawer slide. Put the drawer sides in place, holding them square with a block of wood or tape on the inside; place the drawer front on, keeping it lined up with cardboard shims. Prom the back of cab­inet, mark guide lines onto the drawer front where the sides are to mount. Now measure, in the same way, the width of the 3/4-inch plywood drawer back. Assem­ble the drawer, sand the front, and in the exact center make two saw cuts to simulate the appearance of two drawer fronts. Drill a 3/16-inch hole in the exact center of each false drawer and the speaker front panel. The model cabinet has completely round. 21/2-inch wooden knobs. Fit the phonograph platform panel in place, flush on all edges and snug against the drawer front, and cover the side edges with matching Wood-Trim. Drill three 3/16-inch holes on each side of the panel and one in the center of the back, 3/8 inch from the outside edges, for mounting the panel to the drawer with 11/2 -inch No. 8 roundhead screws and washers. After cutting out the proper opening in the player shelf (I), place the entire drawer in its opening, and pull it out to leave about 4 inches remaining on the slide. On the cabinet bottom, place a stop-block of Ixlx4-inch solid wood, using two wood screws; do not use glue here.

ALL COMPONENTS FROM 3/4"X 4 X 6 FT. PLYWOOD

Place a drawer stop of Ixlx4-inch wood on cabinet bottom in center of drawer width. Use wood screws.

From 1/2-inch perforated hardboard, cut the two sliding doors, and bore 3/4-inch holes 1/2 inch from each edge for finger pulls. Rub paraffin on the sliding door channels and drawer slides. The doors must slide easily; mount them by lifting them into the top channels, where they must have enough clearance and yet not fall out of their grooves.

Mount the brass-tipped wooden legs in place. Cut a 1/4i-inch plywood speaker mask 71/2inches square with the same size center hole as in top (A). Cut four fins from matching solid wood (see drawing) and round off the top end corners. On the bottom edges of all fins, notch out 5/16-inch deep by holding all four pieces to­gether and flush on the ends, then marking and notching the center pieces; on the end pieces only rabbet the notches to the exact length of the mask. Cover the speaker mask with a loose, porous cloth and staple it to the bottom edge of the mask. Assem­ble the mask onto the fins as one unit, using a few 3/4-inch head nails, and screw the ends of the fins to (A) with 11/2-inch No. 8 roundhead screws, after the cabinet has been completely finished.

The cabinet back must be mounted with 3/4-inch screws to allow access to the inside of cabinet. Sand all parts well before and after assembly. Fill all holes with match­ing 1/2-inch long-grain plugs. •

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